1911 80% Custom Build

Disclaimer: Use this information at your own risk, I take no responsibility for you or your property or what do do with this guide. Follow all federal, state and local laws.

1. Introduction
1.  This was not a quick and easy job, but with determination and commitment got it completed!  Patience, common sense and dexterous fingers helped a lot.  I am blogging this having completed my first 1911 with no prior machining or 1911 experience.  The milling portion took me about 5 hours.  The fitting and assembly took me about 10 hours.  By far the hardest part is not the "doing," but the knowing how to do.  After done it once, I am sure I can do it again in a third of the time.  In this introduction I will explain the questions I had, hopefully help a few fellow amateurs.  Completing this is extremely rewarding and you get a nice trophy with an great story and a great appreciation for early 20th century American engineering.
2. Required Tool and Parts
1. Parts - 
1. Frame -
1. $139.99+Shipping Blemished
2. http://www.tacticalmachining.com/1911/1911-frames.html
3. Notes: I have heard that the cheaper blemishes are very minor and a good way to save a little.  I would have gotten this versions but they were sold out.  Also you will be hammering, filing, the end product will have blemishes either way.
2. Complete Parts Kit
1. $210+Shipping
2. http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/451911autobuildkitlessframe.aspx
3. Notes: I wanted to keep the initial investment minimal, and slowly upgrade later as I learned more.  Sarco has a reputation for being the least expensive.  I went with the complete parts kit and trusted Sarco to provide everything, I needed.  Sarco kit came with everything as promised, one note is the grips are cheap used plastic, so far that is the only thing I have replaced.
2. Materials
1. Machine Oil - You will need this to lube the cutters on the mill
2. Dykem - Use this to mark your frame, so clearly show cuts
3. Lapping Compound - This is a liquid sandpaper for get a nice finish on your rails.
3. Tools - This can be the most expensive, especially some of these tools are not used often
1. Mill - I had access to a $1,500 micro-mill.  The big difference between a drill press and a mill is:  a mill uses high quality cutter bits that screw into the machine and are on quality bearings with speed control.  Also the table has very precise XYZ measurements to .001.
2. Cutter Bits - 
1. 3/32 x .375 dia Key Seat Cutter - This is for the rails, I recommend buying two, I broke one of them while cutting
2. 18mm 2 Flute Ball End Mill - for barrel seat
3. Drill Bits - 5/32” drill bit and 7/64” drill bit for
4. Dial Indicator
5. Jig - This is will make laying out holes a breeze
6. Digital Calipers
7. Dremel - Possibly not required but will save a lot of time filing, I used the dremal to finish by barrel seat.
8. Small Files - 
9. Punches
10. Table Vice
11. Common Tools: Pliers, Screw Drivers, Rubber Hammer
3. Milling and Assembly
1. Milling Frame - The frame is the only part  of the pistol that is regulated usually marked with a serial, all other parts can be shipped to your door.  Cutting the frame can be broken down into three parts: Cutting Rails, Cutting Barrel Seat, Drilling Two Holes.  The trickiest part is cutting the rails.
   


1. Cutting Rails - This step is basically to cut a channel on each side of the frame for the slide to move in.  Start by marking area with Dykem.  Next, use calipers to mark a line were you will be cutting.  Next clamp frame perfectly square and level in the mill.  I used a dial indicator.  Position frame for a slow pass, It took me about 5 minutes to make one pass, and I needed about 6-7 passes to cut each side.

   

   Rail Diagram Cross Section

2. Cutting Barrel Seat - This step is basically cutting a rounded pocket in the top of the frame to hold the barrel.  Use the ball end mill, center frame the mill, cut .080" deep down the bridge and the arms.
   
3. Drilling Holes - Use a the jig to drill the hammer pin hole and sear pin hole.  Drill each side seperatly, not straight through.  This step is the easiest but also the most critical, there no very little tolerance here.
4. Fitting and Assembly
1. Fitting the slide - This part involves getting the slide to fit onto the frame.  I started with various files.  There is a lot of test fitting, close observation, more filing.  Eventually I was able to force the slide on, and had to hammer it back off.  At this point I was able to apply lapping compound and force it back and out few times.  Eventually the slide slid nice and smoothly.  That is what the goal is.
2. Fitting Barrel, I had to make some fine adjustments for the barrel to seat, low enough.  I used the dremel with bit #8193.  I kept test fitting until the pistol would fully rack.
3. There are many videos on youtube how to do this.  A few tips:
1. First, organize all parts, put parts you will not need immediately to the side.
2. Second, complete the assemblies first.  This will simplify things, you will have a smaller pile of parts. 
1. Assemblies to get out of the way includes:
1. Main spring housing, Main Spring, Main Spring Cap, Main Spring Cap Pin, Main Spring Housing Pin Retainer
2. Hammer, Hammer Strut Pin, Hammer Strut
3. Barrel, Barrel Link, Barrel Link Pin
4. Magazine Catch, Magazine Catch Spring, Magazine Catch Lock
5. Plunger Spring Assembly
6. Ejector & Ejector Pin (*may have to notch pin with dremel)
7. Slide, Firing Pin, Firing Pin Spring, Firing Pin Stop & Extractor
8. Plunger Tube (some say to stake the base, I also heard you can get by without, my plunger fit pretty tight, doubt it will come out)

TLDR: Obtain frame, parts, and tools, cut frame accurately, fit and assemble.


 Sources:

1. http://www.somuchtodo.com/tactical-machining-1911-80-build-project/
1. I used this tutorial as well as others
2. http://animagraffs.com/how-a-handgun-works-1911-45/
1. I has some trouble shooting, this animation helped me figure out problems

Completed 1911, Machine Tactical Frame, Sarco Parts, Custom Grips