Alatorre Construction Co

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Our experience, coupled with our knowledge of the local market, have helped us provide a smooth home building experience for all of our satisfied customers.

Give us a call. We're sure we can give you the quality home you're looking for, on time and within budget.

Carlos Alatorre

(510) 230-8777

1911 80% Custom Build

Disclaimer: Use this information at your own risk, I take no responsibility for you or your property or what do do with this guide. Follow all federal, state and local laws.

1. Introduction
1.  This was not a quick and easy job, but with determination and commitment got it completed!  Patience, common sense and dexterous fingers helped a lot.  I am blogging this having completed my first 1911 with no prior machining or 1911 experience.  The milling portion took me about 5 hours.  The fitting and assembly took me about 10 hours.  By far the hardest part is not the "doing," but the knowing how to do.  After done it once, I am sure I can do it again in a third of the time.  In this introduction I will explain the questions I had, hopefully help a few fellow amateurs.  Completing this is extremely rewarding and you get a nice trophy with an great story and a great appreciation for early 20th century American engineering.
2. Required Tool and Parts
1. Parts - 
1. Frame -
1. $139.99+Shipping Blemished
2. http://www.tacticalmachining.com/1911/1911-frames.html
3. Notes: I have heard that the cheaper blemishes are very minor and a good way to save a little.  I would have gotten this versions but they were sold out.  Also you will be hammering, filing, the end product will have blemishes either way.
2. Complete Parts Kit
1. $210+Shipping
2. http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/451911autobuildkitlessframe.aspx
3. Notes: I wanted to keep the initial investment minimal, and slowly upgrade later as I learned more.  Sarco has a reputation for being the least expensive.  I went with the complete parts kit and trusted Sarco to provide everything, I needed.  Sarco kit came with everything as promised, one note is the grips are cheap used plastic, so far that is the only thing I have replaced.
2. Materials
1. Machine Oil - You will need this to lube the cutters on the mill
2. Dykem - Use this to mark your frame, so clearly show cuts
3. Lapping Compound - This is a liquid sandpaper for get a nice finish on your rails.
3. Tools - This can be the most expensive, especially some of these tools are not used often
1. Mill - I had access to a $1,500 micro-mill.  The big difference between a drill press and a mill is:  a mill uses high quality cutter bits that screw into the machine and are on quality bearings with speed control.  Also the table has very precise XYZ measurements to .001.
2. Cutter Bits - 
1. 3/32 x .375 dia Key Seat Cutter - This is for the rails, I recommend buying two, I broke one of them while cutting
2. 18mm 2 Flute Ball End Mill - for barrel seat
3. Drill Bits - 5/32” drill bit and 7/64” drill bit for
4. Dial Indicator
5. Jig - This is will make laying out holes a breeze
6. Digital Calipers
7. Dremel - Possibly not required but will save a lot of time filing, I used the dremal to finish by barrel seat.
8. Small Files - 
9. Punches
10. Table Vice
11. Common Tools: Pliers, Screw Drivers, Rubber Hammer
3. Milling and Assembly
1. Milling Frame - The frame is the only part  of the pistol that is regulated usually marked with a serial, all other parts can be shipped to your door.  Cutting the frame can be broken down into three parts: Cutting Rails, Cutting Barrel Seat, Drilling Two Holes.  The trickiest part is cutting the rails.
   


1. Cutting Rails - This step is basically to cut a channel on each side of the frame for the slide to move in.  Start by marking area with Dykem.  Next, use calipers to mark a line were you will be cutting.  Next clamp frame perfectly square and level in the mill.  I used a dial indicator.  Position frame for a slow pass, It took me about 5 minutes to make one pass, and I needed about 6-7 passes to cut each side.

   

   Rail Diagram Cross Section

2. Cutting Barrel Seat - This step is basically cutting a rounded pocket in the top of the frame to hold the barrel.  Use the ball end mill, center frame the mill, cut .080" deep down the bridge and the arms.
   
3. Drilling Holes - Use a the jig to drill the hammer pin hole and sear pin hole.  Drill each side seperatly, not straight through.  This step is the easiest but also the most critical, there no very little tolerance here.
4. Fitting and Assembly
1. Fitting the slide - This part involves getting the slide to fit onto the frame.  I started with various files.  There is a lot of test fitting, close observation, more filing.  Eventually I was able to force the slide on, and had to hammer it back off.  At this point I was able to apply lapping compound and force it back and out few times.  Eventually the slide slid nice and smoothly.  That is what the goal is.
2. Fitting Barrel, I had to make some fine adjustments for the barrel to seat, low enough.  I used the dremel with bit #8193.  I kept test fitting until the pistol would fully rack.
3. There are many videos on youtube how to do this.  A few tips:
1. First, organize all parts, put parts you will not need immediately to the side.
2. Second, complete the assemblies first.  This will simplify things, you will have a smaller pile of parts. 
1. Assemblies to get out of the way includes:
1. Main spring housing, Main Spring, Main Spring Cap, Main Spring Cap Pin, Main Spring Housing Pin Retainer
2. Hammer, Hammer Strut Pin, Hammer Strut
3. Barrel, Barrel Link, Barrel Link Pin
4. Magazine Catch, Magazine Catch Spring, Magazine Catch Lock
5. Plunger Spring Assembly
6. Ejector & Ejector Pin (*may have to notch pin with dremel)
7. Slide, Firing Pin, Firing Pin Spring, Firing Pin Stop & Extractor
8. Plunger Tube (some say to stake the base, I also heard you can get by without, my plunger fit pretty tight, doubt it will come out)

TLDR: Obtain frame, parts, and tools, cut frame accurately, fit and assemble.


 Sources:

1. http://www.somuchtodo.com/tactical-machining-1911-80-build-project/
1. I used this tutorial as well as others
2. http://animagraffs.com/how-a-handgun-works-1911-45/
1. I has some trouble shooting, this animation helped me figure out problems

Completed 1911, Machine Tactical Frame, Sarco Parts, Custom Grips

Custom Dirt Jump Bike Build

Over the past few months I have been building a custom dirt jump bike, after breaking the frame on my Cannondale Chase 3.  My goal is to build a high quality bike for a reasonable price.  Recently I have completed the build!

To increase the quality of my bike and reduce cost:

• Looked for used parts in good condition, I checked Ebay and Craigslist for weeks
• I reused compatible parts from the Cannondale, although most parts were not compatible
• I sold left over parts on Ebay
• I looked for sales on JensonUSA, ChainReactionCycles, and Amazon

Feel free to question or comment.  I hope this build will help someone wanting the same.

Components/Brand/Cost/listed below:

Craigslist
Frame Santa Cruz Jackal
Stem Thomson Elite X4
Fork Fox F Series Fit RLC
Headset Chris King No Thread Set 31.8mm
Seat Post Clamp Santa Cruz
Source: Craigslist SF Bay Area
SUBTOTAL:$550

JensenUSA
Front Wheel Shimano MT55 26" 15mm thru axle disc type ($171.51 for pair)
Rear Wheel Shimano MT55 26" quick release disc type
Cassette Shimano HG31 Altus 11-34T 8 speed ($18.99)
Chain Shimano HG40 7.4mm 8 speed ($12.50)

Ebay
Rotors Shimano SM RT-30 160mm 160mm $ 24.99 Ebay
Front Brake Shimano BR-BL-M395 Post $ 72.99 Ebay
Rear Brake Shimano BR-BL-M395 IS $ - Ebay
Front Brake Lever Shimano BR-BL-M395 front brake lever and caliper assy $ - Ebay
Rear Brake Lever Shimano BR-BL-M395 rear brake lever and caliper assy $ - Ebay

Re-used From Cannondale
Tubes  26" $ - own
Tires Maxxis Hook Worms 26" $ - Own
Seat Yes seat $ 
Bottom Bracker FSA bottom bracket $ - Own
Crankset FSA crankset $ - Own
Pedals Cannondale pedals $ - Own
Rear Deraileur Shimano XTR 8 speed - Own

Amazon
Rear Shifter w Cable Shimano SL-M310 8 speed $ 21.45 Amazon
Seat Post Control Tech One, 10mm Off Sett 30.9mm $ 18.36 Amazon
Bars Control Tech 600mm 31.8 mm $ 11.37 Amazon
Grips Generic grips lock on $ 9.95 Amazon
 Chain Guard E13 SRS+ ISCG 05 $ 70.75 Amazon
Chainring FSA DH/SS 36T $ 24.06 Amazon

TOTAL: $ 1,006.92 (including CA Sales Tax & Shipping)

Pak-A-Punch Review

Review: Pak-A-Punch
Date: 7/8/13

This is a review for the "Pak-A-Punch" made by A1 security.  This tool was purchased from American Key supply.  They are a drop ship vendor shipping took about 2 weeks, which was pretty long.


This tool has been tested in commercial and residential construction, it has not been used in automotive.  The tool is able to accept various punches and die to cut a variety of keys including automotive keys.

I am using the following:

• Schlage (PAK-3S) (a1_pak-3s)  = $415.00
• Conversion Kit for Kwikset (PK3-CV2) (a1_pk3-cv2) = $167.68
  TOTAL COST: $582.68

The tool does exactly what is says it does.  It is much less expensive than the blue punches and is also portable.

When using two different punches and dies it takes about 3 minutes to switch the parts.  It takes a couple times to get the process down, but after a couple time you will not need to refer to directions.  There are some small parts (two hex screws and a ball bearing) that need to handed carefully.  If a small screw or ball bearing is dropped it could be easily lost. The tools comes with an extra of each small part.

The kwikset slide butts the key to the tip unlike the schlage which butts the keys at the bottom.  It took a few bad keys to figure out this.

The tool is pretty durable, I keep it in a box but it constantly get throw in a tool bag and is carried up flights of stairs with other tools.

I really can not think of any complaints, the tool is great for a locksmith on the go, it also does the most for the best price.

Stock Photo

Busted - 1999 Cannondale Super V Raven 1000

This is a blog on my experience with breaking my mountain bike.  The year make and brand are 1999 super V Raven by Cannondale, it was a handy down from my dad. The frame is carbon fiber, with an aluminum swing arm.

I broke the frame at Bidwell Park located in Chico Ca. I attempted to clear this small jump over a shallow rut. At the last second I decided to abort and roll the jump. Well i got just enought air to land on the up hill part of the landing with the rear tire. The force from the impact ripped the bolt for the swing arm thought the frame.  I crash immediately and it took a second to figure out why.

There was no real injury except the back tire came up and grinded the back of my right leg. So next I was stranded 5 miles from home with a busted bike. I call my first friend, whose honda breaks down on the way to pick me up, cost him $500 to get that fixed, I called my other friend who gets lost 5 times trying to find me.

So inconclusion dont dirt jump on a cross country bike, When this bike was new it cost $3000, cannondale has a full lifetime warrenty on thier new bikes, but i guess this bike was out of warrenty, but cannondale agreed to give me either half off a new 2008 rize, or 450 off a complete new bike. So since i got another handy down from my dad, i didnt need a rize, so im taking the $450 and im gonna get the Cannondale Chase 3, which is a dirt jumping bike. Pretty stoked to get that bike, ive heard there are some "secret" dirt jump spots here in chico that i was able to find on the internet. So ya, my first blog, and no proof reading!